1982, av mange sett på som den største årgangen i moderne tid, så USA
få smak for en primeur, og Bordelais oppdager modenhet. Tjuefem
år etter at den ble smakt for første gang, går NICHOLAS TRO tilbake i tid
1982, sett på av mange som den største årgangen i moderne tid, så USA få sin smak for en primeur, og Bordelais oppdaget modenhet. 25 år etter at den ble smakt for første gang, går Nicholas Faith tilbake i tid.
De 1982 årgang skulle aldri bli en vanlig. For en start, som Christian Moueix (nå av Pétrus, da av hans familie négociant firma, JP Moueix) påpeker: ‘Det var en perfekt sommer, som de fra 1989 og 2005’.
For Jean-Bernard Delmas, som da var administrerende direktør i Haut-Brion, ‘Det var en lenestolsommer, varm og tørr, så det var ingen sykdommer, ingen insekter som skulle bekymre oss’. Han overdrev ikke. Vinteren hadde vært mild, april var tørr og solrik, og bortsett fra noen spredte haglvær, var mai like lovende. Juni og juli ga en utmerket, om enn veldig varm, blanding av solskinn og byger, mens august og begynnelsen av september, med temperaturer på 30 ° C, ikke gjorde noe for å skade druene eller forhindre en tidlig høsting - fra 15. september, selv i det nordlige Medisin. Resultatet var Merlot med mer enn 13% potensiell alkohol, enda finere enn Cabernet som nådde mer enn 12% - nivåer som da ansåes bemerkelsesverdige.
Det var ikke den første slike etterkrigsårgangen. 1959 var imidlertid potensielt like bra
på grunn av den dårlige kvaliteten på vinproduksjon på den tiden, ‘halvparten av det endte opp som eddik’, sa Moueix. I 1982 ‘var alt enkelt’. For sin far, den legendariske Jean-Pierre, Pétrus det året lignet 1947, men med to store forskjeller: ja den var 'konsentrert og kraftig', men den var 'mindre tett' enn forgjengeren. En nesten utrolig kommentar til meg, gitt at Pétrus fra 1982 jeg smakte tidlig i 1983 var den tetteste, konsentrerte klareten jeg noen gang har hatt.
Likevel bemerker hver kommentator hvordan den perfekte balansen mellom disse vinene betyr at de er, med ordene til en poetisk ekspert ‘som store menn som danser lett’. Druene kan ha vært modne og sommeren varm, men den var ikke så varm som i 1947, så det var ikke noe tegn på den brente smaken som markerte vinene. Likevel krevde druene og varmen ved høsting riktig kjøleutstyr, som bare noen få eiendommer hadde. På Château Margaux fikk den normalt ikke-klappbare Emile Peynaud panikk og bekymret seg for at overdreven temperatur i slottets gamle trekar ville stoppe gjæringen. Han ringte Corinne Mentzelopoulos og ledet godset etter faren Andrés død
året før, og ba henne om å sanksjonere kjøp av 20.000 £ kjølepumper.
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- Se også: David Peppercorn’s Bordeaux-årgangsrapport fra 1982 - 2005
- For mer om vinjenter fra Bordeaux og over hele verden, se decanter.com ‘S Vintage guider side. Skrevet av Nicholas Faith
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