Du kan knapt bevege deg for vinprodusenter i landsbyene Puligny og Chassagne i Bourgogne, sier Stephen Brook. Og ikke rart. Området er hjemsted for de beste hvitløypene i regionen.
De to tilstøtende landsbyene Puligny-Montrachet og Chassagne-Montrachet deler noen av Bourgognes beste hvitvinsbakker. Begge ligger langs Côte de Beaune, og Chassagne er den sørligere av de to. Chassagne er også litt større, men omtrent en tredjedel av vingårdene er plantet med Pinot Noir. Faktisk pleide Chassagne å være bedre kjent for sine røde enn for sine hvite viner, men kvaliteten på sistnevnte har overtalt mange produsenter til å plante på nytt røde vinstokker med Chardonnay. Likevel er 40% av Chassagnes produksjon fortsatt av rødvin av jordisk karakter. Det er mer enn 20 premiere crus i Chassagne, noen av dem veldig små. Puligny har 17.
passer sesong 6 episode 8
Siden alle Pulignys vingårder er viet til hvite druer, er det ikke stor forskjell mellom Puligny og Chassagne når det gjelder produksjon. Selv om vinene fra hver landsby kan ha forskjellige karakteristika, er det langt fra lett å skille mellom vinene deres i en blind smak. Chassagne har en tendens til å være tyngre, kanskje mer avrundet, og sterkere i åpenbare fruktegenskaper. Puligny er mer stram og blomstret, med en uttalt syre og mineralitet. Slike generaliseringer er imidlertid farlige, siden så mange andre faktorer spiller inn. Det er i begge landsbyene veldig særegne mikroklima avledet fra høyde, eksponering og jordtype, som vil påvirke aromaen, smaken og strukturen til en vin. Og uunngåelig er det den menneskelige innflytelsen: de spesifikke valgene, i vingård og vingård, gjort av hver produsent.
De største vinene fra både Puligny og Chassagne kommer, som de burde, fra de store crusene til hver. Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (3,6 ha (hektar)) tilhører i sin helhet Puligny, i likhet med Chevalier-Montrachet (7,2 ha), som ligger rett over Le Montrachet. Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (1.6ha) tilhører Chassagne. Imidlertid begge deler
Le Montrachet (8ha) og Bâtard-Montrachet (12ha) deles, mer eller mindre likt, av begge landsbyene. Generaliseringer om disse fantastiske vingårdene må være sketchy, men det er ikke så vidt å si at Chevalier blir ansett for sin finesse, mens Bâtard har en tendens til å vise størst kraft og rikdom. Le Montrachets overlegenhet stammer fra det faktum at den klarer å blande elegansen til Chevalier med kroppen til Bâtard. Både Criots og Bienvenues har sine motstandere, og når man står i vingårdene ser det ut til at deres redegjørelse er mindre gunstig.
Som vanlig i Bourgogne er premiers crus ofte plassert midt i skråningen: ikke for høyt, der mikroklimaet er kaldere og blåsere, og ikke for lavt, der jorden kan være for rik. Likevel varierer høyden betydelig mellom premieren crus i Puligny og Chassagne. I Puligny, La Garenne, Hameau de Blagny og Sous le Puits ligger alle ganske høyt i skråningen, så i mindre modne år kan de gi ganske magre, strenge viner. Likevel vil de fleste smakere vurdere La Garenne veldig høyt. I Chassagne er det færre høye steder, selv om La Grande Montagne og Les Chaumées ligger godt oppover bakken.
hell's kitchen sesong 15 episode 12
Det er ikke lett å uttale hvilke som er de 'beste' premierskrusene som er tilgjengelige. Først og fremst avhenger det av hvilken vinstil du liker. Hvis du pleier å favorisere fruktrikhet fremfor eleganse, er det mye mer sannsynlig at du i Chassagne vil glede deg over Morgeots eller Champs Gain over Vergers eller Caillerets. Og i Puligny vil Les Referts eller Les Combettes appellere til deg mer enn Folatières eller Cailleret. Så vil også stilen til vinmakeren spille sin rolle.
Selv om noen vinprodusenter fremdeles favoriserer en betydelig andel ny eik for sine hvite viner, har det blitt veldig unntaket. De fleste produsenter velger 25–35% nytt trevirke for deres premiere crus, og kanskje 50% for deres grand crus.
Terrørene til både Puligny og Chassagne er tilstrekkelig sterke til at bruken av nytt tre vanligvis blir oppfattet som en måte å forbedre vinens kompleksitet i stedet for som en ren smakskomponent. Dette er alle subtile viner. I stedet for å basunere fruktprofilen deres, tilbyr de i stedet en diskret blanding av frukt, mineralitet, syre og eik. De beste av dem eldes vakkert, og erstatter primære aromaer med mer komplekse toner av nøtter og stein og toast.
Stor hvit burgunder er ikke for alle - ikke i noen snobbete forstand, men rett og slett fordi appellen til den subtilt nyanserte stilen langt fra er universell. På den annen side er dette like bra, siden det ikke er mye å gå rundt.
Det er mange superlative viner i Puligny, men få kupp. Chassagne har derimot et større antall små produsenter, og vinene er litt billigere enn de fra Puligny. Samlet sett er det mer sannsynlig at vin med god verdi kommer fra Chassagne enn fra Puligny.
NØKKELSPILLERE: Puligny og Chassagne
CHASSAGNE
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Interessante Artikler
