Champagne crus gleder seg over sin eksklusivitet, men de 17 grand cru vingårdene er fortsatt stort sett ukjente. GILES FALLOWFIELD spør hva hver bringer til bordet, og hvorfor de ikke vises på etiketten.
Champagne har mange likheter med Burgund, den nærmeste nabo i vingården. Champagne crus har druesortene Pinot Noir og Chardonnay til felles, og hvis du kan se utover boblene i Champagne, kan du produsere viner med lignende smaksprofil. Begge bruker det samme kvalitetsvurderingssystemet, med de beste vingårdene i hver betegnelse betegnet som grand cru, og premier cru neste nivå ned.
Mens ordene grand og premier cru i Bourgogne er tydelig skrevet på etikettene til de aller fleste vinene som har rett til å bruke dem, vises de ikke på mange flasker champagne. Hvorfor ikke? Dels fordi salg av champagnekrus i den moderne tid domineres av merkenavn som Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier og Veuve Clicquot. Som et resultat har ikke konseptet med grand cru Champagne egentlig blitt utviklet. Men det er mer sannsynlig at forbrukere kommer over disse vilkårene i fremtiden.
Så hva er grand cru Champagne, hvorfor selges ikke flere viner som sådan? Og hvorfor er Champagnes beste vingårder ikke så kjent som Chambertin, Clos Vougeot og Le Montrachet?
I Champagne er alle 318 landsbyene kvalitetsvurdert i Echelle des Crus-systemet (bokstavelig talt ‘stigning av vekster’) og får en klassifiseringsgrad mellom 100 og 80% (den laveste vurderingen). Noen 257 av disse blir vurdert et sted mellom 80 og 89. Et trinn høyere kommer de 44 premiers crusene, som varierer i klassifiseringen fra 90 til 99. Toppen av bunken er de 17 grand cru landsbyene, alle rangert 100% på Echelle des Crus.
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Interessante Artikler
