Spanske amforaer kjent som tinajas har overtatt fra barriques på Elisabetta Foradoris vingård i Trentino
- Høydepunkter
- Langlest vinartikler
- Magasin: Mai 2018-utgave
Simon Woolf undersøker rapporter om en kontrarevolusjon i italienske vinkjellere ...
Det er et kort, men dramatisk øyeblikk i Paolo Casalis 'film fra 2014 Barolo Boys: Historien om en revolusjon når vinprodusenten Elio Altare tar motorsag til en imponerende linje med botti (tradisjonelle store eikefat) som står i familiens kjeller.
Hans rituelle ødeleggelse av disse ærverdige fartøyene, vedtatt i 1983, hadde et praktisk formål - å gi plass til nyinnkjøpte, mindre franske eikebarrikker. Men den sterke symbolikken var tydelig - den antatt fete, forfallne botti representerte den gamle ordenen. Linjer med perfekte, nylig samarbeidede barrikker sendte ut et klart budskap om modernitet og stil.
Rull ned for å se Woolfs utvalg av italienske viner laget uten eik
Det som virket banebrytende i 1983, hadde blitt de rigueur for prestisjetunge italienske vinprodusenter på slutten av 1990-tallet. Men mer nylig har barrikens avgjørende eikekjær falt i favør, fra Friuli i nordøst til Sicilia i sør og alle punkter mellom.
Italias vinprodusenter bytter i økende grad til alternative materialer og fartøyer for gjæring og aldring, alt fra det tøffe til det direkte.
Der barrikker en gang sto, kan det nå være amforaer, georgisk qvevris, betongegg eller store akasiefat. Er dette bare det sykliske slipet til moteens tredemølle, eller en del av en mer avgjørende bevegelse mot større autentisitet og uttrykk?
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Woolfs smaksnotater og poeng for et utvalg av italienske viner laget uten eik:
Interessante Artikler
