Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca var runde skuffet over denne smaksprøven i 2009, med henvisning til vinprodusentenes manglende evne til å ta opp hvor vanskelig årgangen var som en grunn til denne 'dystre' utstillingen.
'Få 2009-tallet rettferdiggjorde optimisme om levetiden, og de fleste produsenter snakket om 2009 som en årgang for nærtidsdrikking'
2009-årgangen av Barolo vil konfrontere forbrukerne med noen harde sannheter og noen harde viner. Jeg smakte godt over 200 eksempler på Barolo 2009 på Nebbiolo Prima i Alba i mai. Flertallet av vinene som tilbys de fem dagene av arrangementet, manglet ikke bare klassisk Nebbiolo-farge, men viste nesten ingen Nebbiolo-aromaer eller smaker.
Jeg elsker Barolo, og jeg respekterer og beundrer mange av produsentene for deres engasjement og klarheten i visjonen. Likevel må jeg si at forestillingen til mange av dem ikke bare manglet i denne årgangen, den var dyster.
Selvfølgelig var det unntak: flere produsenter - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, for noen - viste seg å være ganske drikke Barolo. Noen få - spesielt Pio Cesare og Massolino-Vigna Rionda - har til og med tro på vinens aldringspotensiale. Denne oppfatningen ble ofte gjentatt av selgere og kjøpere, som smakte på et utvalg av disse vinene en uke tidligere enn journalister, og med produsentene (ikke blinde). Men til min smak - og etter mange journalists mening jeg snakket med - ser de fleste Barolo-produsentene ut til å ha undervurdert vanskeligheten med denne årgangen. Få 2009-tallet rettferdiggjorde optimisme om levetiden, og de fleste produsenter snakket om 2009 som en årgang for nærtidsdrikking.
Giacomo Conterno, fra vingården Aldo Conterno i kommunen Monforte, var en av de mer frittalende produsentene. Han sa: ‘2009 was a winegrower’s vintage. I slutten av august var noen [Nebbiolo] vinstokker allerede modne, og noen var helt umodne - nesten 30 dagers forskjell mellom dem. Hva du gjorde med det, bestemte hva slags vin du laget. ’Den vanligvis upbeat Consorzio-vurderingen av høsten i år er veldig bevoktet:
'Årgangen 2009 vil også bli husket for sitt uregelmessige modningsmønster ... Når det gjelder teknologisk modning, kan årgangen plasseres mellom 2003 og 2007 ... Når det gjelder fenolmodning ... var dataene som ble funnet i druene sammenlignbare med 2003 ... i denne årgangen ble ikke alltid resultatene forbedret ved å forsinke høsten. '
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Skrevet av Tom Maresca
Interessante Artikler
