Etter hvert som begrepet 'mineralitet' blir stadig mer fasjonabelt, samler søket etter en definisjon fart. Sarah Jane Evans MW fremhever mening fra vinprodusenter og forskere over hele verden.
masterchef junior sesong 6 episode 12
Vinordforråd er en dårlig reisende. Ordene vi bruker er notorisk kulturspesifikke, fra damsons til rambutans, og wakame til byggsukker. Nå dukker det opp et nytt ord på vinlister og i smaksnotater som forårsaker forvirring. Selv om ‘mineralitet’ er et begrep som jeg synes er nyttig, er det ikke noe klart syn på hva det betyr.
Vinene som blir beskrevet som mineral, blir også generelt beskrevet som ‘elegant’, ‘mager’, ‘ren’ og ‘syre’. De har en smak som om de slikker våte steiner og ofte en krittaktig tekstur som passer. Noen hevder at det bare gjelder hvitviner, men alle som har smakt en Priorat fra områdets llicorella (skifer) jord vil vite at den også forekommer i rød. Noen hevder at du kan lukte den, mest at den vises på ganen.
Antakelsen er at mineralviner er overlegne fruktige viner fra ‘massemarked’, New World. De har et romantisk bilde, et som antyder at de er håndlaget av håndverkere og uttrykker jordens mysterium, med vinavleren som den magiske formidleren. Typiske eksempler finnes i Chablis, i Priorat, i Mencías av Ribeira Sacra og Bierzo, og selvfølgelig i Loire Sauvignon Blancs, og Rieslings fra Mosel og Rheingau i Tyskland, og Wachau og Kremstal i Østerrike. Merk at dette er europeiske eksempler. Dette er ikke bare et europeisk preg, men det virker mer fremtredende på steder der vinene viser mindre frukt og mer syre.
En nylig periode
Det slående faktum er at ‘mineralitet’ først begynte å høre seg hørt på 1980-tallet. Den dukket ikke opp i Emile Peynauds The Taste of Wine (1983), eller Ann Noble's Aroma Wheel (1984), eller i The Oxford Companion to Wine (2006 - selv om den vil være til stede i 4. utgave som skal ut i 2015). Anekdotisk forteller WSET-studenter at lærerne deres anbefaler dem å ikke bruke den i smaksnotater. Likevel er det et fasjonabelt begrep, veletablert blant vinelskere.
Hvor kommer denne besettelsen fra? Blant mange forbrukere blir tross alt en mineral ‘slikket steiner’ karakter sett på som negativ. Har vindyrking eller vinproduksjon endret seg? Eller blir vi bare forført av smart markedsføring? Mange produsenter ser det som et uttrykk for terroir, mens noen ønologieksperter legger det ned til forbindelser produsert i vinfremstilling. Uansett opprinnelse er det ingen avtalt definisjon av mineralitet, men for mange, inkludert meg selv, er det et veldig nyttig ord.
Fakta eller fiksjon?
La oss starte med det som er kjent. International Mineralogical Association definerer ‘mineral’ som ‘et grunnstoff eller en kjemisk forbindelse som normalt er krystallinsk og som er dannet som et resultat av geologiske prosesser’. Så vinstokker tar opp elementer fra jorden, og dette gir viner sin distinkte smak? Ikke sant? Feil! Mineralelementene i vin er små, bare kalium og kalsium kommer til og med nær 1000 deler per million. Det er ikke snakk om å smake på dem. Som et resultat gir vitenskapen ‘mineral’ smaksnotatet kort.
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Se Sarah Jane Evans topp fem viner for en smak av mineralitet:
Interessante Artikler
