Terroir er et av de buzz-ordene som alle i vinverdenen omfavner, men hva betyr det egentlig? Og har det virkelig effekten på viner som produsentene hevder? Rupert Joy graver dypt for å finne ut av det
Terroir er et av de buzz-ordene som alle i vinverdenen omfavner, men hva betyr det egentlig? Og har det virkelig effekten på viner som produsentene hevder? Rupert Joy graver dypt for å finne ut av det
holde tritt med kardashians frykt for det ukjente
Sør for Condrieu i det nordlige Rhône ligger den lille betegnelsen Château-Grillet. De 3,4 hektar vinrankene i de bratte bakkene til et naturlig amfi produserer små mengder vin fra samme druesort og jord som den mye større nabo, Condrieu. Men det har blitt anerkjent siden 1936 som et eget AC, og selger for langt mer. Eieren, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, understreker at originalen til vinen laget av granittjord og sørvendt eksponering har blitt anerkjent i århundrer. Men noen av naboene hennes stiller spørsmål ved om det er en slik forskjell mellom terrengene til Château-Grillet og Condrieu.
Tanken om at bestemte landflekker produserer spesielt gode viner er ikke ny. Filosofen, John Locke, som besøkte Bordeaux i 1677, bemerket ‘særegenheten i jorden’ av Château Haut-Brion som skilte den fra naboene. En bok av abbed Arnoux, utgitt i London i 1728, tilskrev storheten til Montrachet i Burgund til en bestemt jordstripe på Côte d’Or.
Det som er et moderne fenomen er bruken av ordet ‘terroir’ for å beskrive ideen. Dens originale franske konnotasjoner var nedsettende. Frem til midten av 1900-tallet betydde en vin terroité en rustikk, jordaktig vin med i beste fall en slags yokel-sjarm og i verste fall feil. En vin med en goût de terroir (smak av terroir) var en velsmakende vin som smakte av umodne eller råtne druer. Ideen om terroir som en mer positiv egenskap dukket ikke opp før AC-systemet ble født på 1930-tallet.
Alle har sin egen definisjon av terroir. Den enkleste er kanskje den av den amerikanske vinforfatteren Matt Kramer, som beskriver den som ‘einhvershet’. De fleste franske definisjoner, inkludert INAO (organet som er ansvarlig for Frankrikes vekselstrømssystem), inkluderer fire nøkkelelementer: de fysiske egenskapene til et sted (spesielt jord og eksponering), klimaet, druesorten som brukes og hvilken rolle mennesket spiller .
hvorfor er dr charles i rullestol på chicago med
Få mennesker vil bestride den grunnleggende forutsetningen om at viner har visse egenskaper fra stedet der druene deres dyrkes, og at mennesket spiller en rolle i å uttrykke disse egenskapene. Men med tanke på at omtrent alle vinprodusenter i disse dager hevder å produsere viner som respekterer terroir, og hevder å ta en ‘ikke-intervensjonistisk’ tilnærming, har forbrukeren all grunn til å lure på hva terroir betyr i praksis.
hvor gammel er sonny på generelt sykehus
Røttene til terroir
Kanskje fordi ordet ligner på ‘terreng’, har vi en tendens til å assosiere terroir hovedsakelig med jord. Dette kan igjen oppmuntre oppfatningen om at viner direkte får en smak fra jorden de dyrkes i.
Et klassisk eksempel er Chablis, en av verdens mest gjenkjennelige viner. Til tross for at den er laget av en allestedsnærværende druesort, er Chablis-uttrykket for Chardonnay ulikt det fra noen annen region. De mest anerkjente vinene kommer fra myk Kimmeridgian krittmel, sammensatt av forhistoriske østersskjell.
Produsenter og vinforfattere lager ofte en kobling mellom vinens karakteristiske flintjodsmak og regionens geologi. ‘Hvordan kan du ellers forklare de iodiserte notatene i Chablis hvis ikke av jordens sammensetning?’ Spør Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Du finner ikke denne smaken i Chardonnays dyrket andre steder.'
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Interessante Artikler
