Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Hva er pong? LINDA MURPHY undersøker den mye ondskapsfulle, misforståtte, men i noen kvartaler, verdsatte, verdenen til Brettanomyces.
I det første året av vinkarrieren helte jeg vin på en visning av toppflasker fra hele verden. På en pause fra standen gikk jeg rundt i rommet for å smake på mange av de andre tilbudene.
Da jeg kom tilbake til bordet mitt, spurte vinmakeren ved siden av meg: ‘Har noe virkelig imponert deg?’ ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape fra 1989 fra Château de Beaucastel,’ svarte jeg. Han humret: 'Du må elske Brett.' Selv om jeg ikke visste hva Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-sees) - var på den tiden, elsket jeg Beaucastels jordiske, læraktige, røkt bacon og krydderkarakter , kjøttfull frukt og fast struktur.
Senere lærte jeg at Brett, en naturlig forekommende gjær som ikke er skadelig å konsumere ennå, kan gjøre både gode og dårlige ting mot aromaene og smaken av vin, ville være et hett tema blant vinprodusenter uten noen klar vinner i debatten.
Vintners kaller det 'B-ordet', og i beste fall kan Brettanomyces gi vin det mange mener er positive egenskaper som gir kompleksitet og dybde: jordiske smaker av hanskeskinn, røkt kjøtt, baconfett, tobakk, trøffel, nellik og annet smakfullt krydder.
Likevel, når B blir dårlig, kan det gi vin den støtende stanken av barnyard, gjødsel, plaster, våthund, svett hesteteppe, musemaling og antiseptisk middel. Av frykt for sistnevnte gjør mange vinprodusenter over hele verden alt de kan for å forhindre Brett-forurensning.
Andre oppfordrer til litt av det, for den ekstra unsen av interesse, men må likevel jobbe hardt slik at den ville gjæren ikke overvelder sortkarakter og fruktighet. Andre, vel, la oss bare si at hvis renslighet er ved siden av gudfryktighet, kommer noen vinprodusenter ikke til kirken. De som hevder goût de terroir for sine usmaklige tappinger, gjør bare unnskyldninger for uhygienisk praksis.
Venn eller fiende?
Det er flere stammer av - og teorier om - Brettanomyces, og en fullstendig diskusjon krever en mikrobiologisk avhandling. Enkelt sagt er det to vinendrende forbindelser identifisert med Brett: 4-etyl guaiacol (4-f.eks), som bidrar med det som mange tenker til bacon og krydder og 4-etylfenol 4-ep), med sine negative plaster, våt hund og medisinske egenskaper.
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Interessante Artikler
